DAY SEVEN: Steel Rigg to Willowford Farm, Gilsland

I loved today, I loved today! Though I limped into the barnyard at days end, we nailed it. 10 miles in less than 6 hours. Nice!  I was elated by all we saw. Big changes today as we leave behind the windswept crags of Northumbria and head into the rolling farmland fields of Cumbria. We reach the highest point on the path, at 1145 ft (My GPS) . As I look back from outside Chesters Great Fort to the then roller coaster steep drops and climbs, is like waving goodbye to an old friend.

An excellent full English brekky to start the day, then our friendly and chatterbox cabbie takes us back to our start point, Steel Rigg. The air is cool but still. It's Saturday and the path is more populated today. 

Starting out from Steel Rigg looking west into the day. No rain, less wind, very good.

Highest Elevation on the Path 

Roman Milestone on the Right as a Gate Post

A Sheep Gate

These were built into the walls to let sheep pass from one pasture to another. 

More of This Steep Up and Down

And the road goes on forever...... my confession is my toes hurt. Gripping downwards is a strain. I need my sheep wool protection device. Otherwise I'm doing well.

Great Chesters Fort is unexcavated and lies in a farm pasture. Built to guard the Caw Gap, it's easy to see the bumps and stone outlines now but all the walls are underground . In the lower corner is an altar. 

The Store Room Under the Headquarters

Making an Offering at Great Chesters

Looking Back to Far Away , An "I Was There" Moment

Lunch in the Shelter of a Turret - Winshields Crag

Some of the Last Substantial Wall

A Small Piece

When I left Wallton and started across the fields, there was one small, broken segment of wall, alone and left to crumble. It was kind of sad to leave the crags behind and the Wall itself. For a long time I kept looking back at the high hills with the Wall undulating along the steep edge. It had been my companion. Now it was fading away.

The Ford and Footbridge at Thirlwall

Taking a break from Romans, is Thirlwall Castle. Like Langley, it's a fortified house built to protect the owners and their stock from Rievers. Now it just sits as part of a farm in the hamlet.

Thirlwall Castle

Phil in the Dungeon

Constant warring between Scotland and England meant that people living along the border lived in fear of harassment and death from one side or the other. Raiding parties would steal livestock, possessions, burn houses, rape, kidnap and destroy for gain or spite. This was known as reiving. Anyone could be a victim
The words "kidnapped" "blackmail" and "bereaved " - to be a victim of the reivers - came from this time period. 
To protect themselves from this practice, landowners built small fortified houses called bastle houses, such as Langley and Thirlwell and one at Housesteads made from repurposed stones.  

I saw this post in a field, it looked like something old from somewhere else, or maybe I just have rocks on the brain. I see a lot of out of place structures, they're always being repurposed. Its fun to keep your eyes open. Apparently there were swatikas carved in the Wall, I didn't find out till later so I didn't see them. Lots of graffiti, artists signatures.... 

Last Stretch

Communing With the Locals

It's official, we say goodbye to Northumbria and hello to Cumbria. Half the village of Gilsland is in one county and half in the other.













Willowford at last! The driveway of our B&B follows the wall and the path continues through to Birdoswold. But tomorrow we take a break to find a laundry and rest up. 10 miles today, sore toes, tired eyes. A lot happened today, many changes, people, landscape. We're coming to the end and a day ahead of schedule. 

The Turret and Wall at Willowford

It's hard to imagine a world of people living here in this place 1800 years ago.1800 years!!  They had a civilization, education, a culture. they built walls, temples, bridges. They wanted to look good, eat well, they had friends, raised children, loved, fought wars, had hopes. When I stand beside their monuments I can't help but feel a little of their spirit. 

Plans for tomorrow and going over today. 

Poor Tootsies

If the only moan moan I have is some sore toes and nails I'm doing well. At 20 miles of crags in 2 days, we're on top of it. The sun sets around 10, it's light well after, The animals are all still up when I'm ready to call it quits.  

Playing With Allen

Sunset Willowford Farm and the Wall