DAY NINE: Willowford to Walton

Eager to get ground under shoes again we say goodbye to Liam, Anna, Allen, PiPi, and the lambs as we move on and they continue their lives in this quiet corner of Cumbria. What an inspiration they are!

Bye Allen...zzzzip! 

SEE? There IS NO BUS! It doesnt exist! Read it! 

This was one of those days. Things just didn't fall into place. There has to be one of those, right? Ups and downs like the Crags. 


Shortly after leaving Willowford we climb out out of the the Irthing River valley to Birdoswald. The ruins are situated on a high spur above the river. Although the guide book says there are  a half dozen engravings in the stone wall, 2 phalluses and some Centurion ( dedication) stones, we didn't fine one. Not one. Another trip then.....

Undefeated ( but ok, I was annoyed, who doesn't want to find carvings of penises?) we get our passport stamped and leaving come upon a kite festival. One of the participants had a long chat with us. These guys travel with their collections to show all over the country. 

The farmhouse attached to the fort is a bastle, a fortified farm. Remember the Reivers! 

Bastle at Birdoswald

Sweet!

The easy walking from field to field of wildflowers, gates, stiles and farm stock reminded me of the Cotswolds. The sun was out, the grass was sweet. The miles went easily. We passed an "honor bar", in this case a kid, Matthew, was collecting money in exchange for snacks. That's his picture with his dog. 

The Wall was dwindling if present at all. The ditch and Vallum continued. West of the Irthing Bridge at Willowford and out to the sea, the Wall was originally turf until it was rebuilt in stone later. Here we saw the undulations and scars of that first Wall, but changes are happening in more ways than one.

The Post Reads 1865

New Landscape With the Northumbrian Crags on the Distant Left

 Another frustration! Here on Hare's Hill is a tattered remnant of the Wall. The Book says on the side away from the road there is a dedication stone stating that Primus Pilus built it, and the initials "SSP". We didnt find it. Later I read that this isn't even the real Wall, its a 19C mock up made of Roman stones form the Wall and the carving stones are from another place entirely. What gives? 

There were small bits of Wall along the way, hidden under turf , sunken into embankments, but it made for a sad end. 

Lanercost Priory side trip. Fast forward to 1166.
 Like everything else around here, it incorporates stone from the Wall along with the local sandstone, which is soft and looks like wet clay, making everything inside seem softened and melting. It was attacked many times, once by Robert the Bruce in person. The mortally sick King Edward I - "Longshanks" - rested here for 5 months in 1306, recovering from dysentery, shortly before his death on his final campaign at Burgh by Sands ( hey... we're going there!) . 
The Priory was dissolved in 1538 by our friend Henry. It didnt strike me as romantic or bucolic, it was pretty creepy. 

The ticket lady offered us a taste of ginger liqueur from her secret stash. 
It gets lonely in a haunted and dark ruin. 

We got more mead, we're on an English Heritage gift shop Mead Crawl Across the Wall! 

Let there be MEAD! 

We ended our walk at Walton, mostly road walking . There is one little hidden Roman artifact, the bridge abutment, now taken over by bracken and the busy road over the modern bridge. Sigh. 

Having been thwarted enough today we were in for more when it turned out I didn't have the hotel's phone number. After trying various things Phil was able to get the website up on  his phone.  Then the hotel wouldn't call us a taxi. While we waited for it to come, another trekker arrived hoping for a pub. He'd come all the way from Carlisle, a good 13 miles, passing another pub that was closed. He ran ahead of his friends... but he didnt want food, he wanted to watch the 3pm soccer game! We gave him our taxi friend's info so he could go to Gilsland. Small world.

Still much to enjoy and find beauty in the English countryside.














But hang on.... the insanity isn't over yet. I suppose after 8 days of perfect timing and wonderful plans coming to fruition, we were due for some smack down. 
The taxi overcharged us for the ride but I was so tired suddenly I didn't know enough to contest his fare. 

As soon as I walked into the hotel I knew we were in the wrong place. How they can make a photoslook entirely different from the reality on line! 

My Trip Talisman(men)

Following the theme of Gothic tales and vampires, welcome to the Dalston Hall Hotel. Hear the front door go crrreeeeeak? Ugh... it looks like something out of a bad horror movie. Walking through the halls, that smell like old lady, reminds me of "The Shining". I'll say no more.
No wait... The Shining Meets Denny's.

Plus, I left my adapter and iPhone cord at Willowford. Damn! I am one sad Centurion. 

Don't Let the Pictures Fool You

Manor Exterior Motel 6 Interior

The Jar on the Right Lights Up

Oh to Be Outside! 

Drink Tea And Carry On

And now it's almost 10.30pm, the sky has just darkened. Well, there's always the new day..... we have 2 more stages and a visit to Old World Charm Carlisle. I just want to be outside with the grass under my feet.