DAY FIVE: Port Gate to the Temple of MIthros

 I have desired to go

Where springs not fail,

To fields where flies no sharp and sided hail,

And a few lilies blow.

And I have asked to be

Where no storms come,

Where the green swell is in the havens dumb,

And out of the swing of the sea. 

Gerard Manley Hopkins

Sound the trumpets! It's time to get back on the path and WALK THE WALL! 

We Are Here

Here we are, Not half way but coming into the dramatic scenery , and maybe weather, that is the Wall. Words to use: stunning, awe-inspiring, vast, historic, timeless....... we have started on some of the best, and maybe most challenging, parts of the walk. Almost 9 miles today with a detour to Chesters Roman Fort in Chollerford. 

Today I got a sense of the bleak and foreign world these men endured, especially when it's 50 degrees, rain, mist, drizzle and wind.

Me to Kevin the Faithful Taxi Driver: "You don't really get summer here do you?"
Kev: "We do but I'm working that weekend."

I wonder how often he gets to say that line?

The Vallum and Blooming Gorse

Wade's Military Road, Straight as an Arrow

ST Oswalds Church in the Field and Heaven Field Battleground

St Oswald's church was built to commemorate the victory of Oswald, then king of Northumbria, over Gwynned and Mercia in the 7th century at this field, the Heavenfield Battleground. This was an important moment in British history in that Christianity defeated Paganism (Celts). However, Oswald was later defeated  by the Pagan Mercians under king Penda in 642. His body was dismembered. The spot where he died came to be associated with miracles and people took dirt from the site, which led to a hole being dug as deep as a man's height. A man's right arm was taken by a bird (perhaps a raven) to an ash tree, which gave the tree ageless vigor; when the bird dropped the arm onto the ground, a spring emerged from the ground. Both the tree and the spring were claimed to have healing powers. These legends definitely have pagan overtones. You can take the 97 mile St. Oswald's way pilgrimage path to Lindisfarne on Holy Island. Not today. 

The Wall at Planetrees

This is where we meet more Americans and later see everyone is walking the opposite way as we are. In fact almost everyone we meet is going east to Newcastle. It always seems like that on these walks because unless someone passes you , you are alone directionally. 

Through the meh of Chollerford  comes the not-to-be-missed Chesters Roman Fort, the next stamping spot. This was wonderfully presented and explained in a natural setting by the Tyne. The tea shop ladies were friendly, as everyone is. Phil bought mead in the gift shop. I still haven't found my walking talisman, there's time, but I need an icon.

Check Out How Evenly Cut These Blocks Are

One of the best examples of a bath house was found here at Chesters. 

The immortal pee-pee, symbol of Life,  to Romans

Legions under a single commander, or Centurion, built sections of the wall. The builders would sign their names in stone. This inscription reads: The Sixth Cohort the Century of Loucius Savius Built This

I love these small altars. They were made for any single god with a tribute and decoration then set up in a personal or public shrine. There must have been hundreds in the  museum collection,

Millefiori Horse Brass

More Penises, Pins

Isn't this sweet? A carved boar decoration. Some of the stones were used as we would doodling paper. They would carve pictures and sayings as if they were just having fun doing it. 

One of These Things is Not Like the Other.....

Looking up to the moors, two section of Wall, Limestone Corner and the trig point that marks the highest point of the Roman Empire ... until Phil said "What about the Alps?" 

Black Carts

A break for fun on the wall. Poor Heddon on Wall, claiming THEY have the longest stretch of intact wall. More like Heddon Off The Wall! 

The haunting moors , walking the ditch, north side.

I got a gift today  - I found this little sherd of pottery in the woods. England constantly gives.

Today ends at Brocolitia Fort - or Broccolini. Kev the Driver was coming so no time to explore.... tomorrow. 

And our last night in the castle! It was an energy drain day that you don't realize the toll it took until you're back in your cozy place and crashing. Wet socks, wet feet, wet shoes, I love the heated towel bars! Our last dinner in the Great Room and we sampled some of Phil's mead in the window seat as the light faded away. YUM.