DAY TWELVE: The End of the Walk: Beaumont to Bowness

This was our last leg, the journey has come to an end. We walked the 83 miles of Wall and another 30 odd in cities, villages and sight seeing off the path bringing the total, according to Phil's phone, to 120 miles. 

We stamped our passport and earned our pin.

It's a bittersweet day, as these finishes are. 

There are no ruins, no crags, no forts, just rare sightings of the Vallum and ditch, pilfered stones and cute villages with expansive views over the river Eden and the marshes to Scotland. Although there were 4 major forts between Carlisle and Bowness, the large number of churches and public buildings made Wall destruction prevalent. It was simply and systematically taken apart. 

St Mary's Beaumont

Beaumont is pronounced Beeyoo-mont. The church is built with Wall stones. 

St Michael's Burgh-by -Sands

13C St Michael's Church with it's later protective pele tower, or fortified house , was built right smack dab in the middle of a Roman fort, ABALLAVA. The church was locked, unfortunately, so we couldn't see the pagan stone situated right behind the altar, ironically for the faithful to kneel to as they prayed to a higher god. 

King Edward I

Much road walking today, or alternating between roadside, pavement and the old railway embankment. It was a long 10.7 mile trek and a straight shot across the marshes. Two parties passed us in a hurry to just get it done already. One group was doing 15-20 miles a day and carrying 30lb packs. They did not look happy. 

Burgh-by-Sands has two statutes honoring King Edward I, father of 17 children and called the "Hammer of the Scots". He is best known for his campaigns to subdue Wales and Scotland. Remember he was laid up with dysentery at Lanercost. He then died of the same illness a mile down the road from here. There's this village one showing a strong Edward, and another monument a mile away we didn't visit that marks the place where he fell while waiting to cross the Solway to attack Robert the Bruce in 1307 ( a cast of the Bruce's  skull is in the Tullies museum in Carlisle). It's said that as Edward lay dying he asked for his heart to be taken to the Holy Land and for his flesh to be boiled from his body so his bones could lead the English army in battle against the Scots. Neither request was carried out. He's buried at Westminster Abbey.

I Saw the Signs

The first view of Scotland across the river, looks the same, doesn't it! Dutch air force, I think stationed in Carlisle, doing drills.

In Drumburgh there is a "castle", another fortified anti-Reiver house.

A Secret Symbol

Almost There!

The wide sands of the Solway at low tide.

Just outside Bowness we met Roger, a retired man who built this signpost. In his shed he has a notebook with mileages to various geographical spots. He made wooden letters and numbers to personalize the sign. He'll come out of his little croft house, good-naturedly snag trekkers and set up the sign for their home town. There's a "thank you" box below for donations. He even takes your picture for you. Here he is setting up San Diego. He's off quite a bit, but it was a guess. 

Less Than a Mile to Go! 

Quiet Village of Bowness

One side of the pavilion says "Welcome" to the finishing people, the other says "Good Luck" to the starters. The short loop is an herb garden with the stamping box and a bench.

Stamping

The Ending Blessing of the Feet

The church in Bowness stands on the site of the Roman fort, the 2nd largest on the Wall named MAIA meaning ... wait for it ....  "large". 

Purloined Stones Built the Church, of Course

The unofficial end of the walk is the pub , the Kings Arms, but I'm a tea shop kind of girl and the Wallsend ( the OTHER Wallsend...) tea room at the B&B , formerly the vicarage, was my destination. A warm and celebratory greeting from the people there, plus a most excellent and totally deserved chocolate cake. Phil had local ice cream.

 This guide book has been attached to me for almost 2 weeks now, filled with notes, bent pages, mud, sheep poo, dried plants. We bought a t shirt and got our Wall Walk pin.  I wish we were staying here tonight and our taxi driver, Paul, said we should! 

But it's back to Carlisle, by taxi since we missed the one bus at 1.30 ( we actually saw it!)  and to pick up our rental car, back to the molting, distempered, haunted walls of stinky Dalton Hall.

I'm always in awe of the timelessness of the planning of these walks and then the fruition. Months and months ago this walk was an idea, a discussion on a fall night. It became a reality with hotels, stages mapped out, plane tickets, packing and then the day came when it happened. Now it's done. There's a little sadness but mostly pride and energy, lots of laughs, a little sunburn, a few stiff muscles and plenty of memories.

An event like this, a personal journey, stays with you, becomes a part of you. How can you not be transformed? 

To quote a line from "A Room with a View" by EM Forester... "It happened to the Goths!" 

As the Romans say,

VALEO ~ be strong, farewell!

BUT WAIT!!!! 

I'm watching the sun go down, late into the night. Birds are singing and the English countryside is calling to me still. 
Keep reading; before returning to London Monday we continue into Scotland then follow our Viking ancestors to Holy Island, Bamburgh and a little Harry Potter at Alnwick!